benji shine

View Original

surfing in water

I spent the first part of yesterday trying to grind through various paperwork and online bill-paying and bookkeeping and such. These activities brought me to a fairly familiar state of low-grade anxiety and self-recrimination. (Lately I haven't been doing many financial things about which I later feel guilty. Quite the opposite.) Then some new Pacifica friends took me surfing; they provided a wetsuit, a longboard, and encouragement. We loaded some boards into the Element (finally this car fulfills its purpose in life!) and drove to Linda Mar. My anxiety at this point was directed at something about surfing, but honestly I can't remember what at this point. Got into the wetsuit, carried the board down to the water, got in, started paddling out...

Then
everything
else
disappeared.

Whoever created the pacific ocean, thank you.